I'm riding the Eurostar as I write this, halfway between Paris and London. It has been a wild two weeks for Callie and myself, our first time back in Europe since Covid. It was also my first time in Paris since Taking Paris was released. Seeing the book for sale in a Rue de Rivoli bookstore was a tender moment, a grown man standing in the crowded aisles, marveling at the final results of a book written in my garage office then edited each morning at dawn on my back porch — hot coffee, sunrise, Django and Sadie wrestling over a chew toy, and a pencil I sharpened the instant it lost its point because there's nothing worse than a dull pencil.
There have been many highlights in these last couple weeks and we have seen a lot. I prefer the train while making my way across most countries, time permitting. The scenery constantly changes and I can read, sleep, and just look out the window — three of my favorite things. There has also been a great collection of daily runs on this trip, memorable miles through Hyde Park, along the Danube waterfront, and through the fragrant gardens aromas of the Tuileries this morning. There's a marathon and a new book project waiting for me at home. Even in the midst of this research trip, that search for balance is the order of the day.
But as we all know, these aren't normal travel times. Europe is very much open but you've got to pay attention. If you're planning a trip to Europe any time soon be prepared to brandish your proof of a Covid test the way you once flashed a passport. You can't get on a plane, train or taxicab without proof of vaccination. And plan on making PCR tests a part of your itinerary. We got vaccinated before leaving Los Angeles (paperwork checked before boarding), after arriving in London, and two days ago in preparation for the flight home. There was also something known as the Day 2 test in London, a mandatory Covid test that has to be taken on the second day in-country just to be sure no Covid was picked up en route (go to gov.uk for details). And just to make sure the test actually happens, Day 2 has to be prepaid before leaving America.
And that's pretty much it. Europe is wide open. You'll be asked to wear a mask indoors in most places, particularly in stores and on trains. But as long as you have your paperwork in order you can go anywhere and do anything. If there was on stressor before this great adventure, it had everything to do with the fear that Covid would spontaneously halt our travel, leaving us stranded and quarantined while life back home went on without out us. That didn't happen.
London is not empty but it is not full, the tourists still largely staying away. Budapest seems like an island without illness. Germany is manic about their Covid regulations. The French wear their masks with aplomb, not a single person complaining about the inconvenience. Prices are low, restaurants aren't manic with world travelers, and sites like the Pantheon crypt in Paris are quiet for the lack of crowds. And hotels are so happy for the occupancy that we got upgraded twice, both times to amazing rooms worth far more than our original reservation.
So if you are of a mind to travel to Europe, go now. Just bring your proof of Covid vaccination.